Timed assessment – in the role of the Make-up artist

I really liked the way that this look turned out. Fatima's design was really interesting and I really liked the idea of using the purple/red shades for contouring as well as on the eyes as it looked really intense. I also really liked her idea of using the gold leaf down one side of the face as it gave the effect of the gold while still being able to see the make-up clearly.I think if we were to do this assessment again, I would like to put more practice into the contouring, as it's quite harsh, it can be difficcult to know exactly how much of the product to use.

Timed assessment – in the role of the designer/assessor.

I feel that Fatima did really well with my design and it turned out just like I'd imagined it and it looks just like the facechart. We practiced the look before the assessment but think if we were to do it again I would like to put more time into practicing for the assessments. I also would've looked for a gold product to use for the tears under the eye as the gold Supracwolour didn't show up as well on the pale base. This was something that I should've looked into more before the assessment.

Below is the assessment form I filled out for Fatima's assessment. I felt that she did really well and would probably grade it as an upper second. I feel that she put a lot of research into creating her design and her assessment.

Bibliography

2010. Beauty History: The Elizabethan Era. (Viewed

on 03/10/2015) Available at:

http://beautifulwithbrains.com/2010/05/20/beauty-history-the-elizabethan-era/

2012. Courtly Beauty

Secrets from the 17th Century. (viewed: 18/10/2015) available

from: https://theperfumemistress.wordpress.com/2012/05/15/courtly-beauty-secrets-from-the-17th-century/

Alchin, L.K., 2012.

Elizabethan Era (Viewed 18/10/2015) Available from:

elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-make-up.htm

Andrew

Belsey and Catherine Belsey, 1990. "Icons of Divinity: Portraits of

Elizabeth I" in Gent and Llewellyen, Renaissance Bodies. London:

Reiktion.

Danielle Nunn-Weinberg,

2001. The Painted Face: Cosmetics during the SCA Period (viewed 18/10/2015)

 Available at: http://elizabethancostume.net/paintedface/index.html

Karim-Cooper,2006,

Cosmetics in Shakespearean and Renaissance Drama, Edinburgh: Edinbrugh Press

Ltd

Lady GaGa Net Worth (Viewed

02/12/2015) Available from:

http://www.therichest.com/celebnetworth/celeb/singer/lady-gaga-net-worth/

http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw04273/Mary-Queen-of-Scots?LinkID=mp02996&role=sit&rNo=3#description

Louise

Boisen Schmidt, 2013. The times of the Tudors, The Ideal Beauty(Viewed on:

03/12/2015) Available at:

http://timesoftudors.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/the-ideal-beauty.html

Medical Bag, 2012. Queen

Elizabeth I (viewed 18/10/2015) Available from: https://www.themedicalbag.com/story/queen-elizabeth-i

Robin Lempel,

2015, Beyonce’s net worth could get even higher! Jay Z’s wife sets her

sights on the big screen. (Viewed 11/12/2015) Available from:

http://www.hollywoodtake.com/beyonces-net-worth-could-get-even-higher-jay-zs-wife-sets-her-sights-big-screen-120456

Shakespeare,

Sonnet 130.

WebMD, 2015. Find a Vitamin

or Supplement: Belladonna (viewed 18/10/2015) Available from:

http://www.webmd.com/vitamins-supplements/ingredientmono-531-belladonna.aspx?activeingredientid=531&activeingredientname=belladonna

My Final Design

This was my final design idea. I decided to have the base as the palest shade in the Kryolan foundation palette mixed in with the white Supracolour to pale it out more. The eyelashes and eyebrows will also be done with the Supracolour. The smokey eye was done using the gold/brown shades in the MAC Palette. I kept with the idea of using the gold Supracolour under the eye to create the tear and on the middle of the lips with the dark red around the corners of the lips. I also decided I anted to add more gold to my design so decided to add sequins to the edges of the eye. These will be stuck on in the assessment using eyelash glue.

Make-up Design Facecharts and Ideas

I created a few facecharts of ideas I had for make-up designs before coming up with my final design idea.

Originally I liked the idea of having tears drops underneath both eyes but after a while decided that it would look more effective and striking to just have them on one eye. I did really like the idea of a smoky eye though, being darker on the insides of the eye and using brown and golden shades to keep with the gold theme of my design. I liked the idea of a deep red lip as well as I feel the character I have chosen had quite a lot of darkness in her life but wanted to use a little bit of gold on the inside of the lip to have the gold theme running all the way through the design. 

Make-up Design inspiration

For my design, I wanted to reflect how Bess went through a lot of heartbreak losing four husbands and two children but also wanted to show how those marriages ultimately were the reason for her being so wealthy.

I decided that I wanted to do a tear design from the eyes but using gold to reflect wealth and money. 

These ere some of the designs that I got inspiration from :

My Lady in Waiting: Bess of Hardwick

Bess of Hardwick, also known as Elizabeth Talbot, Countess of Shrewsbury was an Elizabethan noblewoman. She married four times and became very wealthy through these marriages. Her first marriage was to Robert Barlow when he was just 13  and she was around 16. Robert died a year after the wedding and there is no evidence that they lived together as man an wife.

Bess was refused her share in Robert’s estate after he died and a court battle went on for several years before she was given her share and compensation.

Her second marriage was to Sir William Cavendish who was Treasurer of the King’s Chamber.  This marriage lasted ten years and she received the title Lady Cavendish through this marriage. Bess had eight of her own children with William, two of which died in infancy.

Her third marriage was to Sir William St Loe. She took on her third husbands two daughters on as her on after he died suddenly. It is believed that he was poisoned by his younger brother although this was never proved. After his death Bess became one of the wealthiest women in England and became Lady of the Bedchamber to the Queen.

Her last marriage was to George Talbot who was the 6th Earl of Shrewsbury and keeper to Mary Queen of Scots while she was being held captive. Mary Queen of Scots was to be put in the custody of Shrewsbury and Bess for 15 years and is believed to be the cause for them splitting up. She believed that her husband had had an affair with Mary. Although this is unlikely due to his poor health at the time. She spent a lot of time with Mary and together they produced the Oxburgh Hangings.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/06/Elizabeth_Talbot,_Countess_of_Shrewsbury_from_NPG.jpg

Practice for Assessment

For this practice, i did half the face to get an idea of hat I would be doing in the assessment. This was my partner's facechart:

My partner wanted a pale base so i used the white Supracolour (although in the assessment I mixed this in with another foundation to create a pale face rather than a white one). 

I used the purples and red from my Kryolan eyeshadow palette to create a red/purple smoky eye and then used the purple shades under the cheekbones and on the forehead to create strong contouring. I then used a deep red on the middle of the lips. We decided that we would also change the design slightly to include red eyebrows as we felt this looked better than white.

Finally I put gold leaf over the face using Vaseline to stick it on.

Technical File: Elizabethan Make-up

During this session, we practiced Elizabethan style make-up. For the base I used the white in the Supracolour palette and applied it all over the face, ears and neck. I used the Kabuki brush to then blend. I then applied it to the eyebrows using a mascara wand, applying in backwards strokes to cover up as much of the hair and skin as possible and then did the same to the eyelashes, applying just like a normal mascara.

After this I mixed two of the shades (red and pink) from my blush palette and applied it to the apples of the cheeks and on the lips to create the traditional Elizabethan look.

Technical File: Day of the Dead Make-up

Day of the Dead Make-up

During this session we were all asked to do a day of the dead inspired look. I decided to go with a pink themed look for my design.

I used the white colour in the Kryolan Aqua Colour Palette for my base and then used the pink and black from the Supracolour Palette to do my design. 

I really enjoyed this session as it was something that I had not done before and it was fun to try something new. I think if I was to do it again I might use a different product for my base though as the Aqua Colour did go a bit patchy after a while. 

Technical File: Eyes

Eyes

For this session we focused on eyes. We were given charts at the beginning on the session showing what make-up style is most flattering for each eye shape. 

I started by applying powder under the eyes to catch any make-up that dropped from the eye so that it could easily be wiped away. I applied primer to the eyelids as a base and then had to determined my model's eye shape.My model had quite round eyes so I used a lighter colour over the eyelid and then used a darker shade on the outer corners.

I used a dark brown eyeshadow to lightly dust over the eyebrows to make them stand out a bit more and applied a layer of mascara to the eyelashes.

Technical File: Lips

Lips

For this session, we focused on lips. I chose to do a dark red on my model and used an angled brush to put the colour on the lips and ask my model to rub her lips together and the blot using tissue. I carried on doing this until the colour had built up to the coverage that I wanted and then lightly powdered the lips.

Contemporary Portraits

I have chosen this image of Lady GaGa to look at the idea of symbolism and wealth in portraits.

Lady GaGa is a very successful artist and is estimated to be worth around 295 Million dollars. This image shows her looking extremely wealthy. The first thing I noticed looking at the image was all the diamonds. Her earrings show off huge diamonds, which is a typical symbol of wealth. The ones on her head in the headband almost resemble a crown, which again is an obvious symbol of wealth due to crowns typically being associated with royalty.

It is also clear that she is wearing fur. This is again a typical thing we associate with money as real fur is often very expensive.

Even the microphone itself looks very expensive, mainly due to it's size and colour, as it doesn't really look like a standard microphone that we are used to artists using. 

I have also chosen this image of Beyonce. She is wearing a crown on her head and holding a gold Sceptre. These are obvious symbols of wealth that we associate with royalty and the Queen. Her estimated net worth is around $450 million.

The pearls around her neck are also a symbol of wealth, along with all the gold on her outfit. It appears that the whole aim of the image is to present her as a queen and show how wealthy she is. 

Lady GaGa Net Worth (Viewed 02/12/2015) Available from: http://www.therichest.com/celebnetworth/celeb/singer/lady-gaga-net-worth/

Robin Lempel, 2015, Beyonce’s net worth could get even higher! Jay Z’s wife sets her sights on the big screen. (Viewed 11/12/2015) Available from: http://www.hollywoodtake.com/beyonces-net-worth-could-get-even-higher-jay-zs-wife-sets-her-sights-big-screen-120456

http://www.billboard.com/files/styles/promo_650/public/media/lady-gaga-thanksgiving-2011-billboard-650-a.jpg

http://grammarchicblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/beyonce-900-6001.jpg

National Portrait Gallery

We went on a trip to London to the National Portrait Gallery and were told to choose one portrait in the Tudor section that we liked the most. I picked a portrait of Mary, Queen of Scots or Mary Stuart, who was Queen Elizabeth I’s cousin.

Information on the painting

Painter: Nicholas Hilliard

Date: Thought to be mid - late Sixteenth century

Size: 31 1/8 in. x 35 1/2 in. (791mm x 902mm)

Medium: Oil on Panel

In this portrait, she is shown dressed almost completely in black, with a black backround. She is also seen in the image holding a rosary and wearing a cross around her neck.

Mary was the daughter of James V of Scotland and ruled Scotland for seven years. She was later forced to give up the thrown to her only son, James I, and fled to England. She was later executed by Elizabeth I for treason. She was a devout Catholic and was often favoured by Roman Catholics in England over Elizabeth I, who was a protestant. This is most likely the reason for the cross and rosary in the portrait and is considered to be the reason behind the problems between her and Elizabeth, as she was thought to be involved in a plot against Elizabeth.

The information for the portrait states that the painting as once a part of the royal Collection and was most likely done while she was still alive, however this would have most likely been the time that she was under house arrest, so this may explain the darker colours in the image as the painter most likely wouldn’t have wanted her to look too royal due to the fact that she was seen as a threat to Elizabeth. The Latin inscription behind her actually says that she has been a prisoner for ten years. She also has her hair covered, showing a much more modest image of a member of the royal family to that is typically seen from this time.

The cross on her rosary, although it cannot easily be seen, has an "enamelled scene of Susanna and the Elders." (http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw04273/Mary-Queen-of-Scots?LinkID=mp02996&role=sit&rNo=3#description) The story of Susannah and the Elders is from the Book of Daniel in the Bible and is one of the parts of the Bible that is not recognised by the Protestants and is associated with Roman Catholicism, which as previously mentioned, was the religion that Mary belonged to. The Latin around this scene means "troubles on all sides", which could be seen as in reference to the divide between the Catholics and Protestants in England at the time.

http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portraitLarge/mw04273/Mary-Queen-of-Scots?LinkID=mp02996&role=sit&rNo=3

http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw04273/Mary-Queen-of-Scots?LinkID=mp02996&role=sit&rNo=3#description

Symbolism in Portraits

The 'Armada Portrait' is one of the most famous of Queen Elizabeth I. This portrait is full of symbolism. This portrait as painted after the defeat of the Spanish Armada, a fleet of ships that sailed from Spain with the intention to invade England. They didn't end up attacking due to the ships being blown off course. Elizabeth had lead her army down to the coast, a major iconic moment in history.

We can see Elizabeth here with her hand on a globe, showing how important she is and the influence that she had over the world. Andrew and Catherine Belsey stated that "her fingers covering the Americas, indicating England's dominion of the seas and plans for imperialist expansion in the New World".

We can see the crown in the back round, this is a symbol for the English throne and the power of the monarchy. There is also a lot of the typical symbolism at the time, including the pearls that Elizabeth is wearing, representing purity and wealth.

We can also see a mermaid in the portrait. The typical view of mermaids at the time were that they would often lure sailors to their deaths when found as they were so beautiful. This could be seen as symbolizing Elizabeth due to the fact that the Armada never managed to make it to invade England. 

Andrew Belsey and Catherine Belsey, 1990. "Icons of Divinity: Portraits of Elizabeth I" in Gent and Llewellyen, Renaissance Bodies. London: Reiktion.

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiUzeWX69TJAhUEbxQKHe3iA8gQjRwIAw&url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FArmada_Portrait&psig=AFQjCNEu3wkI6FJeK2LdYTitdOtDmSxfqw&ust=1449958692716680

Technical File: Highlighting and Contouring Cont.

Highlighting and Contouring Using Grease-based Products

During this session, we were doing highlighting and contouring like we were before but with grease-based creams rather than powders. For this we used the Kryolan foundation and concealer palettes. I started off just applying the base to the face, using the foundation and the concealer palette, making sure that I had a good skin match:

After I’d done this I mixed concealer and foundation together to create a shade about two shades lighter than my models skin and used this as a highlighter, I applied it to the cheekbones, down the nose and on the chin. I felt that using this as a highlighter was really effective for a subtle and natural look and liked it was it was easy to blend the colours together. For the contouring I mixed shades together to create one that was about two shades darker than my models skin tone and then applied this under the cheekbones. To finish, I used Illamasqua’s Loose Powder all over the face and then used the dark red in my Kryolan Blusher palette, asking my model to smile, and then running it along the cheekbone. I really liked the end result for this look and would definitely use it for when I want to create something very natural looking.

Technical File: Monochromatic Design

Monochromatic

For this session we had to do a monochromatic look on a pale or white face and then do it on someone else in the group that we had designed ourselves. I designed the look before the session on a facechart:

For my design, I decided I wanted quite a simple but dramatic look and decided to use the colour black so used different shades ranging from jet black to grey. I used the Illamasqua skin base in White for my base as I wanted a look that was pale rather than really white. I then did a dramatic smoky eye using the Mac Palette, only using grey and white shades, I really liked using these as I found them easy to blend. For the eyebrows and lips I used the black in the Supracolour palette. I found the eyebrows quite difficult as the colour did smudge and I wanted a very even and sharp look to them. I also used this to create winged liner, although the shape differed from my original design as I felt that the way I designed it didn’t do very well with my models eye shape. Lastly I used the one of the greys in the Mac Palette to contour to create a dramatic and dark look. I found this quite difficult to do as it came out very dark and was difficult to blend into the white base so I put more of the skin base over it and blended it this way.

I like the way that the make-up looks in the photos, however, I felt that in real life the base looked quite patchy. I found the Illamasqua skin base quite difficult to work with as it was very hard to get an even coverage and I found that a lot of it rubbed off. I therefor think that I would use a different product to this when creating a pale faced look in the future.

Contraindications

• A contraindication is basically a reason why make-up should not be applied or why care should be take when applying make-up/styling hair, for example a contagious skin condition. Some examples of these are:
• Boils

• Erysipelas - Bacteria that causes red patches on the skin.

• Dermatophytosis - A fungal infection that cause lesions on the skin.

• Herpes Simplex Virus - Cold sores or blisters caused by the herpes virus, typically found around the mouth but can appear anywhere.

• Impetigo - A bacterial infection causing lesions around the face. Typically found around the mouth, nose and ears.

• Mites - Parasites that live on the body.

• Lice - Parasites that live in the hair.

• Warts.

Non-contagious sin conditions:

• Acne.

• Dermatitis.

• Hives.

• Ichthyosis.

Face Charts

The Colour Wheel

Complementary

Complementary colour are the colours that feature opposite each other on the colour wheel. For example, red and green or yellow and purple. For this face chart based on complementary colours I used green from my Kryolan palette on the eyes to create a green smoky eye and then used the green Supracolour to line the eyes. I then used the dark red Supracolour on the lips. 

Analogous

Analogous colours are any three colours next to each other on the colour wheel. For example, purple, pink and red. For this face chart I did an obmre lip using the pink and red in the Supracolour palette. I then used the purple and reds in the the Kryolan eye shadow palette on the eyes and lined them using the purple Supracolour.

Monochromatic

 Monochromatic colours are all the shades of one colour. For my design I did a grey smoky eye using my Mac palette with black liner and black lips.

Portrayals of Elizabeth in film

There are a lot of films that portray Queen Elizabeth I aside from the 1998 film 'Elizabeth'.

Elizabeth: The Golden Age, 2007
Cate Blanchett went on to portray Elizabeth again in the 2007 film 'Elizabeth: The Golden Age.' This film is set years after the first one and show Elizabeth dealing with the Spanish Armada.

Fire Over England, 1937

Flora Robinson portrayed Elizabeth in this film, which is based in 1588. She went on to play Elizabeth again in the 1940 film 'The Sea Hawk'.

                 

The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex, 1939

This film is based around the love affair of Queen Elizabeth I and Robert Dudley, Earl of Essex. Bettie Davis portrayed Elizabeth in the film and shaved the top of her head by two inches to look more like Elizabeth. She also removed her eyebrows, later stating that they never grew back properly.

Young Bess, 1953

this film is set in the years from when Elizabeth is a child to becoming queen. Jean Simmons portrayed Elizabeth in this film but almost lost out on the part due to being considered too pretty to play her. 

Shakespeare in Love, 1998:

Judi Dench portrayed Elizabeth in this 1998 movie, directed by John Madden. She only appears in the film for about eight minutes.

The Virgin Queen, 2005:

Anne Marie Duff portrayed Elizabeth in this 2005 TV series. This series shows all of Elizabeth's life.

Elizabeth I, 2005:

Helen Mirren portrayed Elizabeth in this 2005 mini-series. 

https://fabrikmedia.blob.core.windows.net/fc3/8df9c4e50ecc50fd.jpg

https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRbWhdl9nNeEKIGnzEu2w9AFMFISDUEK5w-2GbZOt3n8rschga-

http://www.doctormacro.com/Images/Posters/S/Poster%20-%20Sea%20Hawk,%20The%20(1940)_01.jpg

http://docfilms.uchicago.edu/dev/images/2015/fall/2015-11-01.jpg

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https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiz2-yOgtzJAhXEWhQKHcM6ANgQjRwIBw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fanpop.com%2Fclubs%2Fanne-marie-duff%2Fimages%2F26281317%2Ftitle%2Fvirgin-queen-part-1-screencap&psig=AFQjCNGDaL2h8iEdg3n26pdVYTCkTZBJow&ust=1450205362604790

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiOqvyxgtzJAhUGVxQKHd1cBoIQjRwIBw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fanpop.com%2Fclubs%2Fjudi-dench%2Fimages%2F24673166%2Ftitle%2Fshakespeare-love-1998-photo&bvm=bv.109910813,d.d24&psig=AFQjCNEk8ewkCyTsToNP1En136FtvMRSbw&ust=1450205436925465

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwic9_Pig9zJAhUKOxQKHfM4CC0QjRwIBw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tributetotalent.com%2FHelenMirren%2Fhelenliz.htm&psig=AFQjCNFeUUKqZI3sCdEU5f_XdelgdWu20Q&ust=1450205803193544