Technical File: Highlighting and Contouring Cont.

Highlighting and Contouring Using Grease-based Products

During this session, we were doing highlighting and contouring like we were before but with grease-based creams rather than powders. For this we used the Kryolan foundation and concealer palettes. I started off just applying the base to the face, using the foundation and the concealer palette, making sure that I had a good skin match:

After I’d done this I mixed concealer and foundation together to create a shade about two shades lighter than my models skin and used this as a highlighter, I applied it to the cheekbones, down the nose and on the chin. I felt that using this as a highlighter was really effective for a subtle and natural look and liked it was it was easy to blend the colours together. For the contouring I mixed shades together to create one that was about two shades darker than my models skin tone and then applied this under the cheekbones. To finish, I used Illamasqua’s Loose Powder all over the face and then used the dark red in my Kryolan Blusher palette, asking my model to smile, and then running it along the cheekbone. I really liked the end result for this look and would definitely use it for when I want to create something very natural looking.

Technical File: Monochromatic Design

Monochromatic

For this session we had to do a monochromatic look on a pale or white face and then do it on someone else in the group that we had designed ourselves. I designed the look before the session on a facechart:

For my design, I decided I wanted quite a simple but dramatic look and decided to use the colour black so used different shades ranging from jet black to grey. I used the Illamasqua skin base in White for my base as I wanted a look that was pale rather than really white. I then did a dramatic smoky eye using the Mac Palette, only using grey and white shades, I really liked using these as I found them easy to blend. For the eyebrows and lips I used the black in the Supracolour palette. I found the eyebrows quite difficult as the colour did smudge and I wanted a very even and sharp look to them. I also used this to create winged liner, although the shape differed from my original design as I felt that the way I designed it didn’t do very well with my models eye shape. Lastly I used the one of the greys in the Mac Palette to contour to create a dramatic and dark look. I found this quite difficult to do as it came out very dark and was difficult to blend into the white base so I put more of the skin base over it and blended it this way.

I like the way that the make-up looks in the photos, however, I felt that in real life the base looked quite patchy. I found the Illamasqua skin base quite difficult to work with as it was very hard to get an even coverage and I found that a lot of it rubbed off. I therefor think that I would use a different product to this when creating a pale faced look in the future.

Contraindications

• A contraindication is basically a reason why make-up should not be applied or why care should be take when applying make-up/styling hair, for example a contagious skin condition. Some examples of these are:
• Boils

• Erysipelas - Bacteria that causes red patches on the skin.

• Dermatophytosis - A fungal infection that cause lesions on the skin.

• Herpes Simplex Virus - Cold sores or blisters caused by the herpes virus, typically found around the mouth but can appear anywhere.

• Impetigo - A bacterial infection causing lesions around the face. Typically found around the mouth, nose and ears.

• Mites - Parasites that live on the body.

• Lice - Parasites that live in the hair.

• Warts.

Non-contagious sin conditions:

• Acne.

• Dermatitis.

• Hives.

• Ichthyosis.

Face Charts

The Colour Wheel

Complementary

Complementary colour are the colours that feature opposite each other on the colour wheel. For example, red and green or yellow and purple. For this face chart based on complementary colours I used green from my Kryolan palette on the eyes to create a green smoky eye and then used the green Supracolour to line the eyes. I then used the dark red Supracolour on the lips. 

Analogous

Analogous colours are any three colours next to each other on the colour wheel. For example, purple, pink and red. For this face chart I did an obmre lip using the pink and red in the Supracolour palette. I then used the purple and reds in the the Kryolan eye shadow palette on the eyes and lined them using the purple Supracolour.

Monochromatic

 Monochromatic colours are all the shades of one colour. For my design I did a grey smoky eye using my Mac palette with black liner and black lips.

Portrayals of Elizabeth in film

There are a lot of films that portray Queen Elizabeth I aside from the 1998 film 'Elizabeth'.

Elizabeth: The Golden Age, 2007
Cate Blanchett went on to portray Elizabeth again in the 2007 film 'Elizabeth: The Golden Age.' This film is set years after the first one and show Elizabeth dealing with the Spanish Armada.

Fire Over England, 1937

Flora Robinson portrayed Elizabeth in this film, which is based in 1588. She went on to play Elizabeth again in the 1940 film 'The Sea Hawk'.

                 

The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex, 1939

This film is based around the love affair of Queen Elizabeth I and Robert Dudley, Earl of Essex. Bettie Davis portrayed Elizabeth in the film and shaved the top of her head by two inches to look more like Elizabeth. She also removed her eyebrows, later stating that they never grew back properly.

Young Bess, 1953

this film is set in the years from when Elizabeth is a child to becoming queen. Jean Simmons portrayed Elizabeth in this film but almost lost out on the part due to being considered too pretty to play her. 

Shakespeare in Love, 1998:

Judi Dench portrayed Elizabeth in this 1998 movie, directed by John Madden. She only appears in the film for about eight minutes.

The Virgin Queen, 2005:

Anne Marie Duff portrayed Elizabeth in this 2005 TV series. This series shows all of Elizabeth's life.

Elizabeth I, 2005:

Helen Mirren portrayed Elizabeth in this 2005 mini-series. 

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https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiz2-yOgtzJAhXEWhQKHcM6ANgQjRwIBw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fanpop.com%2Fclubs%2Fanne-marie-duff%2Fimages%2F26281317%2Ftitle%2Fvirgin-queen-part-1-screencap&psig=AFQjCNGDaL2h8iEdg3n26pdVYTCkTZBJow&ust=1450205362604790

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Tudor Cosmetics, Recipes and the Dangers

The Elizabethans used many different things in their cosmetics in order to achieve their desired look and many of these ingredients were very dangerous. They had many different recipes for different things, for example, a recipe used to keep skin looking pale and white. This included 'eggs, vinegar, turpentine, sugar-candy, camphor, rock alum, quicksilver, juice of lemons, 'tartarum' and white onion.' This could cause a lot of pain for the women who used it that was a 'result of the use of quicksilver, lemon juice and turpentine.' (Karim-Cooper, 2006, Cosmetics in Shakespearean and Renaissance Drama, Edinburgh: Edinburgh Press Ltd) The white make-up that was worn on the face, known as ceruse, was a mix of vinegar and lead and due to this was poisonous. (elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-make-up.html)

Ceruse. which as vinegar mixed with lead, was used to whiten the skin. This could potentially cause a lot of damage as it could be "absorbed through the skin and leads to lead poisoning, hair loss, muscle paralysis, and a slowly deteriorating mental condition" (https://www.themedicalbag.com/story/queen-elizabeth-i). 

Mercury was also sometimes used as this gave a white sheen to the skin. This was incredibly dangerous due to the fact that it was toxic and caused a lot of problems including "tooth decay, loss of memory"(https://theperfumemistress.wordpress.com/2012/05/15/courtly-beauty-secrets-from-the-17th-century/) and general pain around the body, sometimes with fatal consequences. 

The Elizabethans also focused on eyes. Kohl as often used, much like today, to define eyes, however, they went to more extreme length in order to achieve a wide-eyed look. "It has also been suggested that during the later 16th century, belladonna, or deadly nightshade, began to be used to enlarge the pupil and make the eyes more luminous." (http://elizabethancostume.net/paintedface/index.html). The name 'belladonna' originates from Italy where this practice started and translates into 'beautiful lady'. \the juice of the berry was inserted straight into the eye which could problems due to it being poisonous.

For make-up on the cheeks, women would often use plants "(like madder, an Asian plant with red roots) and animal dyes (such as cochineal, a beetle) or they would sometimes use egg white and ochres. "Madder and cochineal were also used on the lips, which could also be reddened by using vermilion, a red pigment obtained from mercury sulphide."

Karim-Cooper,2006, Cosmetics in Shakespearean and Renaissance Drama, Edinburgh: Edinbrugh Press Ltd

Medical Bag, 2012. Queen Elizabeth I (viewed 18/10/2015) Available from: https://www.themedicalbag.com/story/queen-elizabeth-i

Alchin, L.K., 2012. Elizabethan Era (Viewed 18/10/2015) Available from: elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-make-up.htm

2012. Courtly Beauty Secres from the 17th Century. (viewed: 18/10/2015) available from: https://theperfumemistress.wordpress.com/2012/05/15/courtly-beauty-secrets-from-the-17th-century/

Danielle Nunn-Weinberg, 2001. The Painted Face: Cosmetics during the SCA Period (viewed 18/10/2015)  Available at: http://elizabethancostume.net/paintedface/index.html

WebMD, 2015. Find a Vitamin or Supplement: Belladonna (viewed 18/10/2015) Available from: http://www.webmd.com/vitamins-supplements/ingredientmono-531-belladonna.aspx?activeingredientid=531&activeingredientname=belladonna

2010. Beauty History: The Elizabethan Era. (Viewed on 03/10/2015) Available at: http://beautifulwithbrains.com/2010/05/20/beauty-history-the-elizabethan-era/

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjHu6rutNXJAhUEthQKHSmgA9UQjRwIBw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elizabethancostume.net%2Fmakeup.html&psig=AFQjCNFs8llOGL-uGVfiCo-S69jD8lUBbw&ust=1449978462570596

Elizabethan Beauty Ideals

There is a look we associate with women from the Elizabethan era. This is the red hair, pale face and red lips and cheeks.

It's clear to see from portraits of Elizabeth the use of cosmetics and make-up, The pale face was "considered to be a sign of good health and prestige at the time (only rich women could afford to have fair skin because poor ones would work for hours outside and that resulted in a tan)" (http://beautifulwithbrains.com/2010/05/20/beauty-history-the-elizabethan-era/)


It was Elizabeth herself that set the standards for beauty during her reign and it wasn't "until the Elizabethan age that the heavy make-up became a must in fashion" (The Ideal Beauty, 2013).

Shakespeare himself poked fun at the typical beauty ideals in one of his most famous sonnets, Sonnet 130:

"My mistress’ eyes are nothing like the sun;

Coral is far more red than her lips’ red;

If snow be white, why then her breasts are dun;

If hairs be wires, black wires grow on her head.

I have seen roses damasked, red and white,

But no such roses see I in her cheeks"

Shakespeare, Sonnet 130.






Louise Boisen Schmidt, 2013. The times of the Tudors, The Ideal Beauty(Viewed on: 03/12/2015) Available at: http://timesoftudors.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/the-ideal-beauty.html



2010. Beauty History: The Elizabethan Era. (Viewed on 03/10/2015) Available at: http://beautifulwithbrains.com/2010/05/20/beauty-history-the-elizabethan-era/




https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiw9qjZ-9vJAhUB8RQKHQmvApcQjRwIBw&url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FElizabeth_I_of_England&psig=AFQjCNFiAyuVnLj9gBYjivgprtWW5s_9rg&ust=1450203629646602

Technical File: Pale/White Face

Pale/White Face

For this session we focused on producing a pale/white face with make-up in order to achieve an Elizabethan look. For this session we were in threes and I was the model while the other two applied the make-up. The girls wanted to try out different techniques so one used the white Kryolan Supracolour palette on one side of my face while the other used the white from Kryolan Aquacolour mixed with the Illamasqua Satin Base Primer on the other. The side with the Supracolour produced a pale complexion but looked a lot more natural than the Aquacolour, which came out completely white and more like face paint. As the model I found the Aquacolour easier to wear as it was less drying to the skin but did find that it made my skin slightly itchy so would perhaps lean more towards using the Supracolour on my own face for my assessment.

 Afterwards we tried the whole face and neck just using the Aquacolour but mixed with water instead of a primer. This did come out a lot paler rather than white so again was good for a more natural look. The only issue we had with it was that it was quite difficult to remove all of it and took a while to make sure all of it was gone afterwards. 

Technical File: Highlighting and Contouring

Highlighting and Contouring

In this session we focused on contouring, highlighting and blusher.  We started off doing the foundation like we did in the previous session. We then started with the highlighter adding more in stages along the cheekbones, sides of the face and under the eyebrows. I used the highlighter from the Illamasqua Sculpting Powder Duo as I felt this shade worked better with my partner’s skin tone as she had tanned skin. Then I moved onto doing the contouring by building up darker coloured powder under the cheekbones to help create shadow.  I used a smaller brush to apply it and then blended it in with a powder brush. Then I picked two of the red/pink colours from the blusher palette and applied it onto the cheeks and along the cheekbone.

 I personally preferred doing the highlighter the most out of all three because I find it a lot easier to work with and struggle a bit with the contouring and blush. This is definitely something that I would like to work on. 

Technical File: Base and Foundation

Base and Foundation

During this session, we focused on applying a base and foundation to the skin. We were shown how to use wooden spatulas to scrape out different colours from our Kryolan Palettes and put them on the backs of our hands and mix them together to create a matching shade for the person we were partnered with. I tested out different mixes on the jawline. My partner was quite pale so after a few attempts at trying different mixes I decided to just use the palest shade in the palette as it was closest to her skin tone. I used my foundation brush to apply the colour over the face, ears and neck. I then did the same with my concealer palette and tried different mixes to get a shade close to the skin. I found this quite difficult as I found that the colour kept going darker than I wanted but after a few attempts I found a colour I as happy with. I then applied the concealer using one of my smaller brushes to the insides and slightly under the eyes, the sides of the nose and sides of mouth. We were told that the reason it’s important to apply foundation before the concealer was because if the concealer is applied first it tends to move once foundation is applied an often another application of concealer is required. Due to the foundation being grease-based, it can appear quite streaky on the skin so I used the kabuki brush to buff the skin. I really liked the effect of this as it makes the skin look very clear and more natural. We were then supposed to apply powder over the top but unfortunately my partner and I ran out of time before we were able to do this, although I was able do it in my next practical session.  

Technical File: Prepping

Prepping the Skin

For our first practical session for make-up, we focused on prepping the skin. This involves cleansing, toning and moisturising the skin. We got into pairs within the group and worked on each other and started by putting a cape on our partner to protect their clothes and clearly see the area we were working on. We were also told how important it is to make sure someone is not allergic to anything you may be using on them by asking them if they have any allergies that they’re aware of and to make sure that they know we have washed our hands.

First, I used cotton pads and cleanser to clean the skin first and remove any traces of make-up. We were told to use tissue paper when working on med instead of cotton pads due to the type of skin they have and the hairs that they can have on their face. I also had to use cotton swabs to make sure all eye make-up was removed from under and around the eye and around the nose (my partner has a nose piercing) and around the nose stud. I was careful around these areas to be sure not to cause any pain or discomfort and did check with my partner first if they would rather do it themselves. We were also told how important it was to use upward strokes when prepping someone’s skin so that the skin doesn’t get dragged down so I made sure to do this. I find this quite easy to do but it took a bit of practice to make sure I was being gentle with the skin while also getting rid of any make-up or dirt on the skin.

We then moved onto toning using cotton pads and toner and again used cotton swabs around the eyes and the piercing.  The reason toning is so useful is because it can help get rid of anything that the cleanser has missed. 

For the moisturising I used my hands and applied the moisturiser directly to the skin and made sure to massage it in to the skin well to get rid of any dry skin. This was part of the reason that it’s so important to always wash our hands before we work on people as we will be touching the skin directly.